What Is a Chemical Exfoliation and How Does It Work?

The skin is your body's largest organ, and it works hard to protect you from ultraviolet (UV) exposure and other environmental harms. Cell turnover is your skin’s self-defense, replacing old, damaged skin with fresh, healthy skin.

Here’s the thing: As you get older, your skin cell turnover rate slows. This causes dead skin cell buildup on the skin's surface, which can lead to uneven tone and texture, clogged pores, and even acne. The solution? A chemical exfoliant.

So, what is a chemical exfoliation, and how can you safely work it into your routine? Take the guesswork out of achieving smooth, glowing skin with this guide.

 

What Is a Chemical Exfoliation?

While the word “chemical” may sound intimidating, chemical exfoliants can help resolve rough, lackluster skin when your natural turnover rate puts on the brakes.

Chemical exfoliators use various acids to remove dead skin cells by breaking down the intercellular glue (adhesive molecules) that holds them together. You can choose from different types of chemical exfoliants, which vary in strength, depending on your goals.

 

How to Choose the Right Chemical Exfoliator

When choosing a chemical exfoliator, consider your skin type and concerns. The higher the concentration and lower the pH, the more intense the exfoliator.

 

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs include Glycolic, Lactic, Citric, Malic, and Tartaric Acids. They're derived from fruits, sugar cane, and milk or produced synthetically. AHAs are water-soluble and can penetrate the skin due to their small molecular size, making them the most potent chemical exfoliants. They're particularly effective for dryness, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and wrinkles.

 

A chemical exfoliant may contain one or a combination of AHAs for a more targeted approach. Look for a concentration between 8 and 10 percent for optimal results.

 

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs have a slightly larger molecular structure and are oil-soluble, making them excellent for oily and acne-prone skin. They penetrate the pores and work on the skin's surface to remove dead skin cells. The most common BHA is Salicylic Acid, often found in acne medications and skin care products.

 

Other BHAs include beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, Tropic Acid, and Trethocanic Acid. Look for concentrations between 1 and 2 percent.

 

Poly-Hydroxy Acids (PHAs)

PHAs have the largest molecular size of the three chemical exfoliants, so they're the least irritating and, therefore, ideal for sensitive skin. Along with exfoliating the skin's surface layers, they lock in moisture and provide antioxidant benefits.

The two main PHAs are Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid. If you’re new to PHAs, start with 7 to 10 percent.

 

 

Benefits of Chemical Exfoliation

Intrigued? Here are the benefits of chemical exfoliation.

 

Improves Skin Texture

Chemical exfoliation dissolves dead skin cells, allowing fresh, healthy cells to come to the surface. This is a quick, efficient way to banish dry, flaky, rough skin.

 

Minimizes Pore Size

When dead cells sit on the skin’s surface, sebum (oil your sebaceous glands produce) has nowhere to go, resulting in clogged pores. While you can’t shrink your pores' size, you can minimize their appearance by clearing them of dead skin and impurities.

 

Reduces Acne Breakouts

Chemical exfoliants can penetrate the pores and reduce oil and acne-causing bacteria that lead to pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads.

 

Softens Fine Lines and Wrinkles

Chemical exfoliation stimulates collagen and elastin production, resulting in smoother, plumper, firmer skin. While you can’t wholly banish wrinkles, this can soften their appearance.

 

Evens Skin Tone

An overabundance of melanin causes hyperpigmentation, the pigment that gives your skin, eyes, and hair their color. Triggers include sun exposure, hormonal shifts, some medications, and genetics.

Hyperpigmentation appears as brown, black, gray, pink, or red patches that vary in size. Acne scarring can also cause discoloration. Regular chemical exfoliation can help improve skin tone by replacing damaged, pigmented skin cells with new ones.

 

Boosts Ingredient Absorption

Even if you use the top skin care products on the market, they won’t do their best work if they sit on dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliation removes the upper layer of dead skin and unclogs pores, making it easier for your products to penetrate the skin and work their magic.

 

How to Use Chemical Exfoliators Safely

If you’re new to chemical exfoliators or considering a new type, conduct a patch test first to ensure you don’t have an adverse reaction. Other tips include:

• Apply to freshly cleansed skin.
• Allow the product to dry completely before continuing with your skin care routine.
• Follow up with a moisturizer for your skin type.
• Avoid applying around the lips and eye area, but don’t neglect your neck and chest.
• Experiment with different strengths and types to achieve the best results.
• Follow the chemical exfoliator's instructions and adjust accordingly—keep an eye on your skin!
• Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher daily to protect from sun sensitivity.
• Discontinue use if you notice excessive redness, swelling, or any other adverse effects.

 

Alternatives to Chemical Exfoliation

You can also try physical exfoliation with a gentle scrub, mask, or dermabrasion treatment. If you have active acne or sensitive skin, try a face mask with gentle exfoliating properties like PCA SKIN Purifying Mask to avoid exacerbating breakouts or redness.

 

Fresh, Healthy Skin for the Win

A chemical exfoliant alone may be insufficient if you have stubborn hyperpigmentation, aggressive acne, or pronounced fine lines. Consult a PCA SKIN certified professional to determine the best professional chemical peel for you. You’ve got nothing to lose but fine lines, dark spots, and acne!

 

Author:
Rebecca Taras
A Chicagoland native, Rebecca began her career catering to celebrity clientele as a licensed esthetician at the Peninsula Chicago Hotel. Her passion for skin care ingredients, formulations, and skin histology led her to create custom in-room skin, bath, and body amenities for the Sofitel Hotel Chicago. The Chicago Fashion Foundation recognized her efforts with the Style Maker, Rule Breaker award in the Beauty category. She later went on to co-found Terminal Getaway airport spas. Rebecca’s experience also includes serving as an editor for digital outlets such as Refinery29, PopSugar, Forbes Travel Guides, and Bustle. She continues to refine her skin care knowledge while spending time traveling the world with her husband.